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Rome — There’s a reason archaeologist Ersilia D’Ambrosio can scarcely contain her excitement as she leads the way through dimly lit passageways deep below the Capitoline Hill that was once at the heart of ancient Rome: In a city where almost every historic treasure has been laid bare, this vast subterranean labyrinth is an undiscovered world.
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“No one has seen these caves and tunnels for more than a century,” D’Ambrosio tells CNN, plunging further into the gloom. These chambers, which cover around 42,000 square feet, or 3,900 square meters — roughly three-quarters the area of an American football field — lie in an area beneath the Ancient Roman Forum and the 2,000-year-old Marcello Theater. At its deepest point, one of the caves extends about 985 feet below the surface.
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Known as the Grottino del Campidoglio, or Capitoline Grotto, these tunnels have been part of the fabric of Rome even since before the days of Julius Caesar, despite being forgotten in recent generations. Comprehensively developed in the Middle Ages, they were in continuous use until the 1920s, at various times housing entire communities, shops, taverns, restaurants and, in World War II, people sheltering from falling Allied bombs.
Above ground, on the steamy morning in July when CNN was granted exclusive access to the cavern network, tourists sweated in temperatures of 95 degrees Fahrenheit (35 Celsius) as they explored the Capitoline Square, designed by Michelangelo in the 16th century, and the Capitoline Museums complex. Seventy-five feet below, in the grotto, it’s decidedly cooler at around 55F, with the damp air causing condensation to glitter on some of the tunnel surfaces.
Some of the passages are neatly constructed and lined with bricks, a sign of their development and use in the 19th century. Others are more roughly hewn from tuff, a soft volcanic rock from which the famous Seven Hills of Rome are formed. Walking through the tunnels is a trip back in time, with Rome’s complex layers of history laid bare.
You can walk between the Louvre and the Guggenheim in this new art district
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Right now, if you’d like to visit the Louvre and the Guggenheim in one day, you’d need to cross international borders.
But with Abu Dhabi’s long-awaited cultural district on Saadiyat Island nearing completion, by the end of the year, you’ll be able to walk between them.
The new cultural district will feature international outposts of the world-famous Louvre and Guggenheim museums, along with other institutions, including an immersive digital art space from teamLab and a natural history museum.
“Many places around the world have fantastic cultural institutions; many of them are much older than these. But I think the proximity of all of them is what makes this quite special,” says Mohamed Khalifa Al Mubarak, chairman of the Department of Culture and Tourism in Abu Dhabi.
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The project is piloting a network of “cool paths,” which implement nature-based shading techniques, to allow visitors to navigate between the museums and cultural sites on foot, says Al Mubarak.
The multi-billion-dollar, 2.43 square kilometer museum complex is one of the largest cultural investments of its kind in the world, and its design — by “starchitects” like Jean Nouvel, Frank Gehry, and Norman Foster — is expected to be as much of an attraction as its artworks.
Dr Peter Magee, director of the Zayed National Museum, currently under construction, describes the district as “a constellation of stars” illuminating the region’s history, culture, and art.
The project broke ground in the mid-2000s and has not been without controversy. Human Rights Watch raised concerns about conditions for migrant workers, which were refuted by Abu Dhabi’s Tourism Development and Investment Company (TDIC), which was overseeing the project. Others have questioned whether the Unites Arab Emirates’ censorship laws are aligned with the values of the Louvre and Guggenheim.
But Abu Dhabi will be hoping the complex, which will have more than 1.7 million square feet of space across its five main institutions, will become a world-renowned tourist destination in the same way as Hong Kong’s 98-acre (40-hectare) West Kowloon Cultural District and Berlin’s 21-acre (8.6-hectare) “Museum Island.”
As several of the museums prepare to open later this year, take a look at what to do in Saadiyat Cultural District.
Abu Dhabi’s science-focused museum explores the 13.8-billion-year story of our universe, complete with a research center. When it opens later this year, the 35,000-square-meter (377,000-square-foot) museum will be the largest of its kind in the region.
Its star attraction is Stan, the world’s most complete Tyrannosaurus rex skeleton, which was purchased for $31.8 million in 2020. The 67-million-year-old fossil will be on display alongside the Murchison meteorite, which crash-landed in Australia in the 1960s and contains organic compounds never identified on Earth, as well as “pre-solar grains” formed before our own sun, and to date, the oldest material discovered on Earth.
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What happens when an octopus engages with art?
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When the Japanese artist Shimabuku was 31 years old, he took an octopus on a tour of Tokyo. After catching it from the sea with the help of a local fisherman in Akashi, a coastal city over 3 hours away from the Japanese capital by train, he transported the live creature in a temperature-controlled tank of seawater to show it the sights of Tokyo before returning it safely to its home the same day.
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“I thought it would be nice,” the artist, now 56, said about the experience, over a video call from his home in Naha, Japan. “I started to travel when I was 20 years old. But octopuses, maybe they don’t travel so much — and when they do, they are just going to be eaten. I wanted to take an octopus on a trip, but not to be eaten.”
Documenting it on video, Shimabuku took the octopus to see the Tokyo Tower, before visiting the Tsukiji fish market, where the animal “reacted very strongly” to seeing other octopuses on sale, the artist said. “Octopuses are smart — maybe he told his experience to his octopus friends in the sea (after returning).”
The interspecies day trip, resulting in the 2000 video work “Then, I Decided to Give a Tour of Tokyo to the Octopus from Akashi,” kickstarted a series of projects Shimabuku has undertaken over the decades that engage with octopuses in playful, inquisitive ways. A portion of this work is currently on show in the UK, in two exhibitions that explore humanity’s relationship with nature and animal life: “More than Human” at the Design Museum in London (through October 5) and “Sea Inside” at the Sainsbury Centre in Norwich (through October 26).
Fascinated by what the sea creatures might think, feel, or like, Shimabuku has documented their reactions to various experiences, from the city tour of Tokyo to being given specially crafted artworks. “They have a curiosity,” he said. “For some other animals, it’s only about eating and making love. But I think octopuses have time to wander — time for hobbies.”
When he lived in the Japanese city of Kobe, Shimabuku would go on fishing trips with local fisherman, taking the opportunity to learn about octopuses. “Traditionally we catch octopuses in empty ceramic pots — that’s my hometown custom,” he said. Fishermen would throw hundreds of pots into the sea, wait two days, then retrieve them — finding octopuses inside. “Octopuses like narrow spaces so they just come into it,” explained Shimabuku.
When he saw the animals within the pots, he discovered they were “carrying things”: shells, stones, even bits of broken beer bottles. He began to save the small objects the octopuses had gathered — “a collection of a collection,” he said.
More than 200 firefighters are struggling to tackle an out-of-control wildfire on Crete — Greece’s largest island and a tourist hotspot — as authorities order mass evacuations.
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The fire broke out Wednesday afternoon near Ierapetra, a town on the island’s southeast coast, amid unusually high temperatures, 3 to 5 degrees Celsius (5.4 to 9 Fahrenheit) above average, and gale-force winds of around 50 miles an hour.
The conditions are creating “new outbreaks, making firefighting work very difficult,” the Fire Department’s press spokesperson, Chief Vasilios Vathrakoyannis, said in a statement Thursday.
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More than 230 firefighters, along with 46 vehicles and 10 helicopters have been deployed to fight the blaze, according to fire officials.
The flames have spread rapidly, reaching homes as well as hotels and other tourist accommodations.
Authorities asked residents of four settlements to evacuate and move toward Ierapetra. About 1,500 people have been evacuated so far, according to the Greek public broadcaster ERT.
The Ierapetra municipality has converted an indoor training center facility into a makeshift camp, where hundreds of tourists and residents who abandoned their homes spent the night Wednesday.
The police, medical services and the coast guard have all been called to the area.
“We are entering the third and most difficult month of the fire season,” Vathrakoyannis said. July is typically the hottest month in Greece and is often accompanied by strong winds. “These conditions favor the spread of fires and increase their danger,” he said.
Wildfires have ripped through other European countries this week as the continent endures a brutal heat wave.
Tens of thousands were evacuated in Turkey as blazes ripped through the western Izmir and Manisa provinces and southern Hatay province, damaging nearly 200 homes.
Blazes also broke out in France and in Spain, where two people died.
Europe experiences wildfires every year, but they are becoming more intense and frequent due to human-caused climate change, which fuels heat and drought, both helping set the stage for fierce, destructive fires.
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